Local flavor
As Donnell wrote in our last blog post, the Alliance has been conducting a series of blind tastings, seeking to define what makes Long Island merlot…Long Island merlot. We’ve tasted merlots and merlot-based blends from all over the world, and at least one thing became clear: Long Island has developed a particular style. Sure, this style has a bit of a range depending on the ripeness of the vintage. We can’t escape the fact that our merlots do differ somewhat stylistically depending on vintage. I do think, though, over the last two decades, this vintage variation has decreased dramatically.
What I found most interesting, though, was the selection of flavors that predominate Long Island merlot:
- fruit: blueberry, blackberry, red raspberry, strawberry, cherry, plum (beach plum) cranberry
- herbal/plant notes: violets, thyme, chamomile, sassafras (cola) mint, black pepper
- other: minerals (stones, gravel) salinity, cedar
I thought about this list during our tastings and one thing struck me. Most if not all of these fruits and plants are indigenous to Long Island - they are in fact native plants to our northeastern coastal region. Is it a coincidence? I feel strongly that it isn’t. These elements of flavor in our wines ascribe a local identity to our wines and the flavors they have. It is the expression of our terroir. This is the flavor of Long Island.
–Rich Olsen-Harbich
One other point I think deserves mention and that is this:
Long Island merlots typically have lower alcohol and less oak character than their counter parts in both the old and the new world. I think this is sometimes taken for granted but I believe it’s a huge factor in how balanced our wines are.
Due to the observed change in style of French Bordeaux in response to the “Parker Effect” - one could argue that our merlots have more of an elegant and balanced classic structure than the original classics themselves…
Rich, I have a question about the flavors you mention as characteristic of LI Merlot. If, as you say, they are indigenous to the region, why wouldn’t ALL LI wines taste this way? Why would these flavors be unique to Merlot?
Thanks Art - good question. In my opinion, the flavors of terroir are always a unique combination of first, the inherent flavors of the variety along with the gently layered influence of the climate and soil of the site. Terroir is always a subtle affect, good or bad. I do think many of these flavors also exist in our other reds however not in this same combination or level of complexity.
Frankly this has been the only variety we have focused on this way so we honestly don’t have the same tasting panel results for other reds - but I will say from making and tasting other red varieties for many years, it really all comes together in the merlot and the influence of terroir is very positive. You really don’t get all of these same flavors in any other red variety.
In terms of the whites, they are also going to be varietal first, but I do believe we’ve seen the common themes of a saline minerality, chamomile, green apples and sweet grass and herbs - all also indigenous to our region.